The (Un)Safety Rant

Some grousing about idiotic boat operators made me respond with a blog comment that I’ve now expanded a bit. In the original comment, I was responding to a professional ship skipper who noted some stupid things that small craft operators do that might risk shortening their life span. Of course, stupidity on the water occurs in many places and no one type of watercraft operator has quite managed to corner the market on stupidity, though some succeed more often than others. There are all sorts of idiocy and idiots on the water.

Although it’s better to learn from the mistakes of others than to be the example (we hope) others learn from, it would be better still to prevent some of the idiocy on the water. Note also that it's impossible to make watercraft and water safety foolproof -- fools are too ingenious for that!

We see so-called skippers who have no clue that right of way rules (Colregs) exist, and others who misinterpret them wildly.

As an example, there's the guy who hears about the rights of certain fishing vessels and thinks, mistakenly, that trolling a line from his fishing pole gives him the same rights as a purse seiner or shrimp trawler.

And, limited ability to maneuver is a relative term, with judgment called for but sometimes sadly lacking. In a tight harbor or narrow channel an oil services workboat could have limited maneuverability, but it doesn't really have special rights on the open sea, whereas a supertanker's area of limited maneuverability covers some 70% of planet Earth (hint: the wet part).

Small craft skippers don't help by:
• failing to keep lookout,
• boating under various influences,
• changing course whimsically and unpredicatably (without looking or planning ahead),
• underestimating closing speeds and mis-judging approach angles,
• not realizing how invisible their craft are (visually and on radar),
• not thinking to hail on VHF,
• not maintaining or properly operating nav lights,
• not knowing how to interpret nav lights,
• ignoring channel and fairway etiquette,
• loitering in traffic separation lanes,
• not maintaining mooring and ground tackle (get my Drift?),
• not equipping their boats with radar reflectors (for near coastal) or electronic identification,
• relying blindly on GPS (even setting a course across shoals or dry land in a decidedly non-amphibious vessel),
• diverting rescue services and commercial operators by venturing into conditions for which they were grossly unprepared,
• not wearing life vests or using harnesses or jacklines in rough or limited visibility conditions, or by
• just plain old not taking early and substantial action to avoid a collision.

Does that cover the list or did I miss a few, such as the extreme idiocy of playing chicken or trying to see how close one can get to big ship, or someone deciding a big ship's wake or bow wave would be fun to play in? Darwin Award, here we come....


But wait! Here’s another groovy, trippin’ notion: try to navigate a small boat between a towboat and the barges it’s towing.

Or how about
• the drunken jet skier who slammed into a historic wooden ship?
• the sweet young thing wearing her high heels on a slippery foredeck?
• or the legions of jet skiers who think they can steer without thrust (off throttle)?
• or the ones who cut behind vessels… right into the path of other traffic?
• or the windsurfers who make absolutely no provision for cold water and go hypothermic without any help nearby?
• the guy who set up his bilge pump to work backwards?
• or the fishermen who anchor their small boat in a busy harbor or tie up to nav buoys?
• or the guys who anchor off the transom?
• the skipper and crew who don’t even realize they’ve lost their water skier until a mile later?
• or the skipper who uses a thirty-foot anchor rode to anchor in twenty feet of water?
(Hint: “Man, this is a drag.”)
• the guy charging into the slip at 10 knots… who realizes his fenders and dock lines are stowed below… and where are the brakes on this stupid thing?
• or the nocturnal hot rodder going 40 knots near obstructions on a moonless night?
• the idiots who drag a huge wake through marinas or mooring fields?
• the “teak surfers” getting their fill of carbon monoxide?
• the folks perched on the bow of a runabout bouncing in chop?
(Class, can you say “propeller strike bait”?)

Another gem: “Meestair, we don’t need no steenkeen fuel reserve!”

Or, Depth sounder? Sure we got one … it’s called the propeller and lower unit! Yep, we’ve got a very expensive depth sounder, all right. Sure is a pain to have to get a tow to the harbor and drive to the store to buy a new prop ‘cause we sure wouldn’t want the boat lockers clogged up with a spare prop, pin, and tools when we could stuff another case of beer in there.

Chart? Why bother? I know every sandbar, rock, and ledge in this bay! See! Here’s another one!

I’m not even going to try to think of all the amazing antics that happen at boat ramps. Drain plug? Straps? Parking brake or chocks? Safety chains? Who needs ‘em?!? Mast clearance under power lines? Why bother? Wait until we’re on the boat ramp to start setting up our boat for the weekend? Why not?

Many small craft operators in open water don't realize that, the earth's curvature and their proximity to the surface so limit their horizon that a fast-moving ship can "pop up" and be on top of them in a short time if the skipper is distracted or not maintaining a frequent 360 degree watch.

Some commercial operators don't help with sloppy watch standing. Fatigue and training can be a big issue on smaller commercial craft. Some operators of smaller commercial vessels seem to think that they have unlimited rights just because they're commercial. Some owners aren't too worried about how well rested or trained their crews are. And don’t get me started on the admirable standards maintained on some “flag of convenience” ships.

Dark Secrets: Tillerman is a motor boater! . . . . . . . . . . . . (and so are most of the rest of us, ouch!)

Recently, the well-networked sailing blogger Tillerman was musing (perhaps half in jest) on whether he needed to carry signal flares in his commodious Laser sailing yacht and whether a Coast Guard inspection party would be able to get their muddy booted feet upon his fine sailing machine.

In response, I thought to research and compare safety and equipment requirements for sailing dinghies in Rhode Island and New Mexico. Some of the results were not so surprising, but some of my other findings led me to a shocking and horrible discovery.

Tillerman and I are both really motor boaters.

Even when we never touch a motor... outboard, electric, diesel, whatever. Even when the boat doesn't have a motor. Even when we're gliding silently along under sail only, even when there's no propeller within a hundred yards of our craft.

You see, the State of Rhode Island says so. And so does the State of New Mexico (via tortuous definitions). And so, too, I suspect do many other states say. Yes, my friends, it's a conspiracy; a dark, sinister plot to smudge every sailor with the tarred brush that would label us all as stinkpotters.

Don't believe me? Read the law. Specifically, the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management implements title 46 of the Rhode Island General Laws. In describing which boats are registered and regulated under the law in Chapter 46-22, Regulation of Boats, Section 46-22-2 clearly states....

(2) "Motorboat" means any vessel whether or not the vessel is propelled by machinery. For purposes of this chapter, motorboat shall not include houseboats as defined in § 44-5-25.1, canoes, and rowboats twelve feet (12') in length or less.

So, if the Great Tillerman rents or buys a houseboat, it's not a motorboat (for these purposes). But, his Laser is a motorboat -- and more so a motorboat than a houseboat! Now, if he could just deform the Laser and make it skinnier, he might get it to qualify as a canoe, just maybe. Or, he could try to mount oarlocks, cut off two feet of the bow, junk the rig, and add oars to qualify as a rowboat.

Confused? Wait until I show you a law that may prohibit Tillerman from sailing on one morning of the week!

I, II, III, IV, or V? IV? Watch out “IV” it! Fore! And IV safety's sake, don’t play without your IV!

I. PROBLEM

We want boaters to be safe, and carry not only the safety equipment that is required, but also appropriate, useful equipment beyond the minimum requirements. But, we certainly don’t want to give boaters inaccurate information about the law, see citations given or voyages terminated based on incorrect information, or create ill-will on the water needlessly.

One murky area seems to be the question as to whether a throwable flotation device is required for paddlecraft and other small craft (under sixteen feet in length overall).

Life preservers or life vests are called “personal flotation devices” (PFDs) by lawyers and boating safety people, and are categorized into “types”. Types I, II, and III are wearable vests that vary in their flotation and (purported) ability to turn an unconscious wearer right-side-up. Type V are special-purpose wearable items such as inflatable vests and float coats. Type IV PFDs are throwable items such as buoyant cushions and life rings.

The New Mexico boating safety guide teaches that a US-Coast-Guard approved Type IV throwable PFD (buoyant cushion or life ring) in good condition is required on almost every boat, regardless of size, in addition to a wearable PFD for each passenger. But, something I saw on the Boat US website seemed to tell me that only boats 16 feet and longer have to have a Type IV throwable PFD. And, as I did a bit of research, some of the answers that came remained confusing and contradictory…


II. EVIDENCE

Boat Ed’s New Mexico Required Equipment Table shows that a Type IV is required on almost all motorboats – both under 16 feet and sixteen feet and over, and on all sailboats, and all manually propelled craft (canoes, rowboats, kayaks), and whitewater craft., regardless of length. Only personal watercraft (jet skis) get a pass. (Perhaps this is slightly ironic, since these craft have a high rate of accident concerns.) In addition, persons on paddlecraft in New Mexico are required to wear their PFDs, as well as persons on all sailboats under sixteen feet except for windsurfers.

(See http://www.boat-ed.com/nm/nm_specific_images/pdfs/nm_handbook_other_info.pdf and the most recent version of the Boating Act within the New Mexico Administrative Statutes. Additional requirements apply for children under 13 years of age and for regattas or races. New Mexico also has boating safety education requirements that apply to anyone born after 1 January, 1989.)

New Mexico’s on-line Park Regulations and Boating Guide (using a slightly older boating guide, published by Outdoor Empire) quotes the New Mexico Boat Act as requiring,

“66-12-7 NMSA 1978: EQUIPMENT (Note: see also Boating Reference Table on page 62)
A. Every vessel shall have aboard:
(1) one life preserver, buoyant vest, ring buoy or buoyant cushion bearing the mark of approval of the United States Coast Guard and in serviceable condition for each person on board; “

And, from www.nmlegis.gov,

“"66-12-7. EQUIPMENT.--
A. Every vessel shall have aboard:
(1) one life preserver, buoyant vest, ring buoy or buoyant cushion bearing the mark of approval of the United States coast guard and in serviceable condition for each person on board;”


III. LOOPHOLE?

Do you see a potential problem here?
Hint: “life preserver, buoyant vest, ring buoy **_OR_** buoyant cushion” is not the same as “one ring buoy or buoyant cushion bearing the mark … and one wearable life preserver or buoyant vest…for each person.”

Bonus points for quibblers:
The New Mexico law DOESN’T mention that the life vests or preservers need to be able to fit the persons on board (children, for example) and need to be immediately available in case of emergency. In theory, I could comply with that law by having kids on my boat with nothing but Type I extra-large PFDs on board -- or nothing but a stack of buoyant cushions hidden away somewhere.

The actual language of the New Mexico Boating Act (Section 66-12-3 NMSA 1978) [NMSA = NMAC] implies that a Type IV could **_SUBSTITUTE_ FOR_OR_REPLACE ** (ouch!) a wearable PFD, even though the Boat Ed table on page 64 (which is used to teach boating safety classes) shows that the Type IV is required for all craft (except personal watercraft) in addition to the wearable PFDs. This is a section of the boating guide, by the way, that was left unchanged by state senator Carlos R. Cisneros’ 2009 Boating Act revision bill (SB 436). The law, as written, deviates significantly from US Coast Guard guidance and general practice and apparent intent.


IV. MORE EVIDENCE TO "THROW" IN:

Aside from the horribly ambiguous NMAS 66-12-7 language about wearables vs. throwables, the New Mexico requirements exceed the requirements of the US Coast Guard that apply on Federal waters, and differ from the requirements of many other states. Others may debate whether this is good or bad, but my concern here is confusion and non-compliance brought about by laws that vary significantly between jurisdictions. People who read national-level guidance may think they’re obeying the law when they’re not.

In evidence, one can quote a web thread on Paddling.net, http://www.paddling.net/message/showThread.html?fid=chat&tid=1101293 :

“My state's boating regs call for vessels 16 ft long or more to carry a Type IV in addition to "regular" (Type III) PFDs. There is no exemption for kayaks or canoes! . . .”

The conclusion of the thread is that many states exempt canoes and kayaks, even if 16 feet and over

Here’s an example of a state boating safety guide that requires a Type IV for all boats 16 feet and over:

“ • All recreational vessels sixteen (16) feet in length and over must have one Type I, II, or III PFD of suitable size for each person aboard and each skier being towed, and in addition, one throwable Type IV PFD.”
Vessel Operator’s Guide, North Carolina, http://www.ncwildlife.org/pg02_Regs/pg2c1c.htm

And here’s am apparently more lenient neighbor state, from the paddling.net thread:

Arizona does not
Posted by: rikjohnson on Apr-20-09 1:53 PM (EST)
And we allow a Type-IV instead of the Type-III.
So you often see someone in a canoe or kayak with nothing but a floating seat cushion.

I always carry a Type-IV strapped to my rear deck for two reasons:
1) i have a soft place to sit when I beach for lunch. We ARE in the desert!
2) I can easily clip my Painter to the handle and have a ready throw line for rescue.

But, on second thought . . . .

What a mess of regulations
Posted by: pikabike on Apr-21-09 3:40 PM (EST)

“In addition to the question of exemption, some states add pedalboats and sculls to canoes, kayaks, and even jetskis.

But the worst thing is that most of the "not exempt" states are the ones that use Boater Ed's "Handbook" to publicize their state's boating laws. (Colorado is one of these.) Yet the state of Vermont explicitly posts that their actual laws are the ones to follow, which may differ from what's in the handbook!

Some states only publish a summary online.

Some didn't even discuss PFDs other than a vague mention that PFDs should be on board.

Some websites contained info contradictory to what people posted in this thread. For example, the websites for AZ and NC did NOT exempt canoes and kayaks.”

And,

Posted by: arledge on Apr-22-09 1:09 PM (EST)
The “.... Code of Federal Regulations ... §175.15(b) requires all recreational vessels over 16 feet to carry a type IV throwable PFD. §175.17(b) exempts canoes and kayaks from the type IV carriage requirement. However, in §175.5 The federal regulations give the states the power to enact their own laws covering wearing and carriage of PFDs.”

So, people who read the Coast Guard rules may think they don’t need a Type IV on small paddlecraft … which is true in Federal waters and some state waters, but not in others.


V. CONCLUSIONS

The patchwork of rules has left paddlers up the creek, but at least they’re not without a paddle. A paddler who travels between jurisdictions will have to do some legal research to comply with laws that change at state and Federal water boundaries.

Conventional ring buoys certainly don’t fit in a kayak, and even buoyant cushions may not be a good fit. If legislators and boating safety officers want kayakers to carry a Type IV (and remember that many or most kayaks are single-person boats with even less room on board than a jet ski), then perhaps consideration could be given to making a life guard’s “torpedo buoy” an approved Type IV device for kayaks. It would fit better in a kayak than other Type IV throwable PFDs

The language in the New Mexico Boating Act could be used to advantage by someone who wants an excuse for not having either any wearable PFDs or any throwables. It might be wise for the State Parks Department to suggest that the Legislature clarify the relevant clause (66-12-7).

It would also be helpful if organizations such as NASBLA (National Association of State Boating Law Administrators), the NSBC (National Safe Boating Council), and US Coast Guard could take input from stakeholders such as kayakers and other boaters, and then encourage the states to harmonize their laws so that boaters won’t face so much inconsistency between jurisdictions.

Yours truly,
Pat Byrnes

UPDATE: I'm told that "The statute is wrong, but the regulation corrects it." It seems that the NEw Mexico legislature made a very murky attempt at writing the basic law, and didn't follow US Coast Guard standards and confused things badly, but the parks department corrected the errors in its own regulations.

That leaves a couple of questions...
Should the statute be corrected to be more in harmony with Coast Guard guidance and the regulations and training doctrine followed by the state parks?

What happens if someone is cited for a violation of the regulations and tries to quote a contradictory part the statute in his or her defense?

And, we still have the issue of it being onerous for small paddlecraft (such as one-person kayaks without storage space) to comply with the requirement to carry a Type IV throwable PFD, which is not required in Federal waters or in many other states.

28 checks for trailer sailors before launching a boat from a trailer

Too many sailors audition for the part of "boat ramp comic". Try not to be one of them by following these checklist steps for preparing a boat for trailering and for launching a boat from a trailer. Note that the exact order of these steps may depend upon your circumstances and whether you have helpers and how capable they are. Modify the order and steps as needed and skip those that don't apply to you.

By the way -- don't forget the drain plug.

Pre-hitch-up

(1) Check weather and conditions. Let someone know where you're going, especially if you're going alone -- file a "float plan" with a reliable friend and make arrangements to check in with a shore-based buddy or cruising companion. Find out about local conditions at your destination. Match your personal and boat gear to expected conditions. A "float coat", wet suit, dry suit, or full foul-weather and other gear may be needed for cold, wet conditions; a floppy hat and lots of sunscreen and water for hot sun. Does your boat have communications gear (cell phone, VHF, CB, SSB/amateur radio, EPIRB, etc.) on board suitable for where you'll be? Are there special rules for what kind of equipment you'll need?

(2) Prepare yourself and your crew. Does the state or province where you'll be boating require operator training or a license? Do your crew know what to bring and how to help out? Do you and your crew know basic navigation and safety rules? Do you feel comfortable towing and back a boat and trailer? Would you like to do some practice? Do you want to recruit help for setting up your rig, rigging the boat, and launching it? Do you have signals set up and a good understanding of who does what at the boat ramp?

(3) Check tires -- check pressure, tread wear and condition. Covering the tires or putting a sheet of wood or plastic alongside them may help during storage. Trailer tires often require much higher pressure than auto tires and some gas station coin-op air compressors don't do a good job of providing it. Don't forget to check the spare -- you do have one, don't you? You do have a tire gauge, don't you? One that can read the higher pressures used by trailer tires?

(4) Check bearings; grease them as needed. Try to match the grease in use and make sure it can handle water immersion and high temperatures. Re-packing the bearings every year or so is a great idea. Having a spare set of bearings packed in grease and a plastic bag with a grease gun is a good precaution before a long-distance journey.

(5) Check condition of trailer. Are any wires broken? Bunk boards missing, loose, or lacking carpet? Do rollers turn freely or need lubrication? Some of these things may be easier to fix when the boat is off the trailer, but most of them can be checked with the boat on the trailer. Is the trailer the right size and type to support the boat? Are the axles rated for the weight of the boat?

(6) Check the fit and balance of the boat on the trailer. Tongue weight should be around 5% of the total weight of the boat and trailer or perhaps a tiny bit more. If the tongue weight is seriously wrong, you'll have a harder, more dangerous tow.

(7) Check attachment of boat to trailer. Does the winch lock securely? Do you have a back-up/secondary attachment line from the front of the trailer to the eye in the bow of the boat? Is the front of the boat winched snugly to the pad on the post at the front of the trailer? Are any tie-down straps snug but not super-tight? Straps should be snug, and a couple of twists in each strap is actually a good thing. Straps that are way too tight could put strain on the trailer frame and cause it to fail (by not being able to flex in response to road vibration, bumps and potholes, speed bumps, etc.).

(8) Is the motor secure on the boat? Are any props, struts, chocks, or straps attached properly? Is it tilted up properly so it won't hit the ground during a bump? Are sailboat rudders, centerboards, or daggerboards secure? Have any items been secured that might otherwise blow away or be damaged during a highway tow? Is there stuff in the boat that might fall down and break or spill? Are bimini tops and other canvas items secure?

(9) Check legalities -- is the trailer registration current? Boat registration? Do you need any permits or permissions for your destination? Wilderness preserves or foreign countries have various requirements, for example.

Hitch-up

(10) Make sure your towing vehicle is a good match for the tow load and in good condition for its journey. Towing limits aren't absolutes in several senses; think about more than just the vehicle's stated limit to know whether it'll meet your needs. An under-sized or under-equipped vehicle may be able to tow a heavy load a short distance at low speed but be completely unsuited for freeway/motorway towing. Heavy duty hitches, anti-sway apparatus, heavy duty radiators, long wheel bases, and wide side mirrors can come in very handy.

Special considerations apply to long-distance towing of large boats; special permits may be required, towing may not be permitted during certain days or times of time, more restrictive speed limits may apply, and different states and jurisdictions have different rules.

A 12-volt compressor or air tank and a mechanic's jack just might be nice things to have; the jack on your car may not be a good fit for your boat trailer.

(11) Check the hitch ball on your towing vehicle. Make sure it's the right size. A too-small hitch ball won't lock securely; after a few bumps on the road the hitch on the trailer could jump up off the ball and cause an accident. Sometimes it's hard to read the hitch ball size that's engraved on the front of the boat trailer. Color-coding by painting a stripe on the lower part of the ball and on the trailer could help if you have different size trailer balls. If the trailer isn't too heavy, you could try locking the hitch and the ball and then lifting to feel whether it seems secure.

(12) Lock the hitch on the ball on properly and secure a bolt, padlock, or hitch lock thorough the hole designed for this purpose. Some hitches are easier to secure than others; the bulldog style works very nicely.

(13) Attach the safety chains in a "crossed" pattern. Twist the chains a bit if there's too much slack, but leave enough slack to accommodate turns. Crossing the chains and keeping out slack helps form a cradle that can catch the front end of the trailer if it jumps off the ball (and it shouldn't if you followed steps 11 and 12 above, but even experts make mistakes).

(14) Attach trailer lights and make sure they work. Different trailers and tow vehicles may have different connectors. If your trailer is attached with trailer brakes, check those, too. Consider replacing old trailer lights with new LEDs that use less energy and resist water damage better.

(15) Make sure you have everything you need on the boat, such as safety equipment. Naturally, you'll want flash lights (electric torches) if you'll be launching in the dark. Do you have your current boat registration validation sticker properly attached to the bow, registration card in your purse, wallet, or dry bag, etc.?

(16) During the journey, check your trailer and boat -- tires (do they feel too hot?), lights, straps, etc. -- periodically during the tow. One rule of thumb is after one mile, ten miles, and every hundred miles. Remember that the tires will naturally get warm and increase their pressure while rolling at high speed. If you let air out, they'll get even hotter, and if you keep letting more air out you'll set up a spectacular failure. Don't do that!

At the boat ramp and rigging area

(17) Take care of any entry fees, boat inspections, etc. Check out the rigging area and boat ramp. See whether other people are having trouble launching. Get local advice about ramp conditions... are there sand bars? Is the ramp unusable during certain tidal conditions or lake levels? Is it suitable for your type of boat? When does it get crowded? Will you be able to turn the towing vehicle and boat around on the ramp or will you have to back all the way down? Is the bottom of the ramp slick with algae or cluttered with junk?

(18) Prepare your boat in a safe area outside the main flow of boat ramp traffic; don't hold up the line while you're removing tie-down straps and covers, raising the mast, loading gear into the boat, or doing other preps.

(19) Don't forget: disconnect trailer lights before backing into the water; otherwise you may burn them out

(20) Powerboat operators: Don't forget the drain plug!!!

(21) Sailboat operators: Be extremely careful of overhead obstacles with the mast up!!!

(22) Drive down the ramp and back the boat and trailer into position near the water's edge. Place chocks behind tires for safety. This is your last chance to disconnect trailer lights and make sure that drain plugs are inserted. Is the drain plug inserted?

(23) As needed, take care of special procedures needed by some trailers, such as extension of trailer extension bars, deployment of launch wheels, or release of trailer tilt mechanisms. Is the drain plug inserted?

(24) Deep-keel sailboats are often lowered on a cable, strap, or rope. The trailer is chocked and the drop line is secured (with a proper bowline at each end and some loops to relieve stress and make it easier to untie later) between the front of the trailer and the back of the towing vehicle. The trailer hitch is then disconnected from the ball, the safety chains are removed (a loop of trailer line is run around the hitch ball), and the trailer light connectors are undone. Then the towing vehicle is driven up the ramp, taking pressure off the trailer chocks, and the chocks are removed.

If the boat cannot be lowered immediately adjacent to the courtesy dock/pier, then at least one person must remain on the boat unless helpers can tend long lines from the boat to the courtesy pier.

The boat and trailer are then lowered to the proper depth so that the boat and its keel can clear the trailer.

In some cases, if an underwater sandbar prevents the trailer from rolling down far enough into the water, a line may need to be attached to the back end of the trailer and pulled from the end of the courtesy dock pier or by a powerboat.

(25) Launch the boat! Before releasing the boat from the trailer, you'll probably want to make sure that the motor is working properly (is the fuel tank vent open?), fenders are deployed, a paddle is handy (just in case!) and everything is ready to go.

(26) Take care of the trailer. Retrieve chocks, store the trailer securely (preferably in a secured, well-lit location if you'll be leaving it for a long time). Make sure any entry/parking stickers are displayed properly. Stow loose gear properly and keep valuables out of sight and secure. Lock the towing vehicle and trailer. The order of this and the next step may have to be changed if you're launching solo.

(27) Take care of boat business; tie the boat to the courtesy pier with proper cleat hitches and fenders in the right places, finish loading and checking the boat, fuel the boat at the marina if needed (with the proper oil mix, of course), fill and secure ballast tanks on water-ballast boats, check navigation lights, fuel levels, etc. Make sure all the gear you need is ready to hand or stowed properly, and that you, your crew, and the boat are prepared for conditions that may change rapidly while you're on the water. Brief your crew and show them where to find equipment and how to use it. Does your crew how to get in and out of the boat safely? Know how to operate the radio? Rescue you if you accidentally fall in? Know what to do if you're in a small boat and it capsizes?

(28) Boat safely, follow the rules, and watch out for the other guys who may not be watching for you. Enjoy your time on the water and good luck boating, sailing, racing, cruising, skiing, tubing, fishing, hunting, wildlife watching, or whatever it is that brings you to the water.

13 Lucky Charms for when the park ranger pulls alongside your boat

Most boats in New Mexico must carry

(1) PFD/lifejacket, one per person, properly sized, in good condition, immediately accessible, USCG approved, Type V special-purpose units must be worn/used according to labeling to be counted (all boats), children under 13 and people on small craft (jet ski, canoe, kayak, raft) and skiers/tubers/wakeboarders must wear theirs

(2) throwable flotation device (all boats)

(3) whistle or sound producing device
(bell on 26-footers and up, hand- or power-operated horns on 26-footers, power-operated horns on 40-footers and up)
(New Mexico doesn't have federally controlled waters where visual distress signals such as flares would be required; on federal waters smaller craft are not required to carry day signals; night signals are required for all craft operating on federal waters between sunset and sunrise)

(4) lights (display as needed, requirements vary by boat size, type, use)

(5) rope (at least as long as boat, running rigging doesn't count)

(6) bailing bucket (or hand bilge pump)

(7) oar or paddle (exemption for some very large craft with high freeboard)

(8) backfire flame arrestor (gas inboard-outboards or inboards)

(9) fire extinguisher (boats with enclosed engine, fuel, or storage spaces or permanent fuel tanks)

(10) ventilation (vessels with enclosed machinery spaces)

(11) registration numbers on bow, registration sticker ("validation decal") on port bow (specific size, shape, contrast, placement requirements)
(New Mexico motorboats must be titled, but the title isn't something that has to be on the boat.) For purposes of registration, sailboats sails count as "mechanical propulsion" in New Mexico; not many people realize that sailboats over ten feet are required to be registered (but not windsurfers, canoes, or kayaks)

(12) certificate of number (wallet card)

(13) boater safety certification card (in NM, for operators born after 1 January 1989) For purposes of the education requirement, a sailboat is a motorboat; an unsupervised young operator needs to have a card.

The National Association of State Boating Law Administrators, NASBLA, doesn't actually print the booklets for the boater safety classes and rules digests. What it actually does is write National Boating Education Standards and promote uniform boating regulations. NASBLA works with state boating enforcement agencies, the US Coast Guard and Auxiliary, National Safe Boating Council, and other organizations.

The standards define the minimum topics that must be covered in a NASBLA-approved boating safety course. The vast majority of US states and territories follow NASBLA standards.

An example of a standard (from the 2007 requirements) is
"Standard 6.5 - Fire Emergency Preparedness
The course will describe procedures to prevent and respond to boating fires such as proper use of fire extinguishers and basic knowledge of fire suppression principles."

The states publish their own law digests and arrange with publishers such as Boat Ed (Dallas, TX) or Empire Outdoor Publishing (Seattle, WA) to print the boating safety booklets or texts.

The states and publishers may add local or additional material to their courses and may present and illustrate the material as they see fit -- just so long as it gets covered.

Fire extinguisher requirements can get tricky; besides length and type of propulsion, the presence of enclosed passenger, fuel, combustible storage, or machinery spaces will trigger a requirement.

Other useful stuff for kayakers might include dry bags and helmets for some whitewater kayakers.

Skiers need mirrors or observers and skier flags (an observer and not just a mirror is required for PWCs, which also must have seats on board for the operator, observer, and skier(s)); divers need diver flags.

Boats 26 feet or over on federal waters are required to display the "garbage disposal placard" and "discharge of oil prohibited" placard and ocean-going boats 40-feet and over must have a written "waste management plan".

Sailboat racers may have additional items required by their one-design class equipment rules, local yacht club or regatta rules, or be subject to offshore racing equipment rules. For example, Etchells sailboats have class rules calling for two paddles and two bailing buckets plus towline, anchor line (both lines of specified minimum diameter and length), and anchor/chain of a specified minimum weight.

Operators of small craft, such as single-seat jet skis, might wonder what they're doing carrying a fire extinguisher or throwable PFD. An answer is that they can use those safety items to help someone else who gets in trouble; it might take more than one fire extinguisher to put out a fire.

Fire extinguishers and flares are tricky to use. Unfortunately, few people ever get a (legal, safe, supervised) opportunity for practice, especially with flares, which can be frighteningly dangerous if deployed incorrectly. Got welder's gloves? Fire extinguishers have a very short discharge time (often on the order of say 15 seconds) and are picky about being used correctly in order to actually get a fire put out for good (all together, class: pull, aim [at the base of the fire], squeeze, and sweep). Boat US has some good information on its website for these items.

Normal Position (Or, another reason I don't race a Laser)

Q …does a capsized boat correctly finish if she crosses the finishing line when:

(a) all of the crew members are (somehow) on board even though the boat is capsized,

(b) some of the crew members are not on board but are very close to the boat and trying to straighten it out, or

(c) some of the crew members are not on board because they have become disconnected from the boat and its equipment, but are swimming to reach the capsized boat

?

A: Yes. It is normal for dinghies to capsize and therefore a capsized dinghy and its crew in the water are in a normal position. It follows that a boat finishes correctly in all the conditions stated in the question....

(Adapted from ISAF Q&A 2008-002)


Now why would people want to race a boat that is normally capsized? It's bad enough when these Laser sailors cause all sorts of confusion sailing by the lee with downwind windward banana overlaps or whatever (you'll have to look it up in volume 57 of the Laser Class Rules Encyclopedia or some such); what sorts of rules confusions are going to result when they sail by the turtled hull?

And how do you determine which boat has right of way when we have turtled-hull Lasers racing, even if they aren't sailing by the lee with downwind windward banana overlaps?

Let me race a boat that's normally right-side-up, thank you very much.

Kachina's big owie

Kachina back on land the evening after receiving her big hit. During Saturday's third race, a port-tack boat t-boned Kachina, which was the stand-on starboard tack boat. The port-tack skipper and crew were relatively new to the boat and perhaps didn't keep an adequate lookout or lacked coordination to turn the boat quickly. The sound of crunching fiberglass could be heard 400 feet away in spite of the noise of wind and waves in the brisk 14-knot conditions.

we were up the course when the incident happened and responded to a radio request to provide assistance by ferrying the boat owner/master boat wrangler from the committee boat to the marina. The crew of Kachina heeled the boat over and duct-taped the bottom of the hole to prevent the boat from taking on water and sinking before motoring back to the boat ramp, where the boat owner quickly prepared the trailer for retrieving Kachina.

Skippers and crews of port-tack or other give-way/burdened/no rights boats need to be extremely mindful of their position on the race course at all time and should take early, decisive action to avoid a collision and the attendant risk of liability for damage, sinking, injury, or other grave consequences. It's also important for skippers and crews to be very aware of how their boats perform under different conditions.